Here we are in the middle of summer and for all intents and purposes, Covid is behind us – hopefully. We can all breathe a little easier (did I say no masks?)!
Obviously, we all are comfortable with the usual cast of characters – chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, Vermentino, Arneis, rosés, pinot noir, Chianti, sparkling wine and so on. So, as we continue to look for wines that are great for summer but not from the usual suspects list, one of my favorites that I have enjoyed over the years is pinot blanc.
Introduction to pinot blanc
I was first introduced to this wine by Jed Steele, winemaker extraordinaire. He made a bottling from the Santa Barbara area. Jed said that “it is a colorless expression of red pinot noir grape” and as you know I am a big fan of pinot noir. As I was growing the list at The Mooring, I was not only seeking the same grape varietals from differing regions but different varietals and I fell into this one. It is a great wine, it is made in California by Steele, Chalone and a few others. These two may not be in the state, although they were at one time, so if you see them while dining in a neighboring state try one. The grape is basically an Old World grape, aka Europe. It does very well in Alto Adige, Italy, Austria and Alsace, France.
What are the characteristics of this grape?
It is a dry wine possessing great acidity, usually a medium body. It displays aromas of dough, apple some spice and most notably, almond. It is a crisp wine perfect for summer as it is great with summer food and quite refreshing. It responds well to winemakers intervention, much like chardonnay, but most do not create a very complex wine. Most are fermented in neutral oak which will over time add to the aromas somewhat. The wine is not for ageing, but those that have several years on them will start to exhibit aromas of honey. But, most pinot blancs are meant to be consumed within 3 years.
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How to pair pinot blanc
As for pairing this wine, it seems almost it was made for our part of the world. It goes so well with our seafood. Flakey fish, swordfish, oysters, clam, mussels, crab and of course lobsters. Recently, while dining out, I have seen the addition to many restaurant menus of Alaskan King Crab, not local, but nevertheless, wonderful. Popular today is sushi and pinot blanc is a perfect marriage. With the farmer’s market in full swing, not only are we blessed with incredible local seafood, but our produce is coming on strong, the bounty of summer is upon us. Pinot blanc and salads are a delight, but the salad should not be dressed with creamy dressing, like a 1000 Island, but a more simple acidic dressing so as not to overwhelm the wine. It goes well with pasta sauced with a light cream sauce or an acidic red sauce. As for cheeses, it works well with mild ones and think salads with a cheese topping – feta or goat please!
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Pinot blanc producers to consider
As for producers, Austria has one I like, Hopler. Next, move to Italy and one of the great producers from Alto Adige, Italy is Alois Lageder who makes terrific wines. By the way, just for confusion, the Italians label pinot blanc as pinot bianco! Just throw your hands up in the air and roll with it! Alsace is home to so many great producers of pinot blanc among many other varietals. Trimbach and Hugel are sort of the most recognizable brands and probably the easiest to find. Both make outstanding wines. In addition to these stalwarts look for Humbrecht, Maison Kuentz-Bas, Cave de Turckheim and my favorite, Domaines Schlumberger. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a producer from Napa that is available in the state, that being Robert Sinskey Vineyards, a wonderful winery.
What’s the cost?
One of the beauties of this wine is it won’t break the bank. Most of them will be in the $20 range, give or take. Some do have pricier ones, but before you start climbing the financial ladder try the starters out first to see how you react to them. I do think you will be pleasantly surprised at the price to quality ratio.
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My monthly PSA announcement that I have been giving during Covid. As a retired restaurateur, I can’t imagine what these restaurateurs have gone through. Now that we are basically wide open, what could possibly go wrong? For starters, the cost of food is rising, coupled with delivery issues. Beverages are experiencing similar problems. The big problem is staffing. Almost every restaurant is dealing with labor shortages the likes of which I have never seen. So, how do they react? Remove tables for one, close dining rooms. Some close for a day or two entirely, others eliminate weekday lunch shifts. Many re-engineer their menus to deal with food shortages and have to raise prices which the shortages have caused. Just when you thought the coast was clear, all these issues arise. So, as we all want to dine out for the summer, please be aware of how difficult a time it is for owners, management and especially the floor and culinary staffs. They want to provide you with the best possible experience they can despite all they have to tackle.
In closing, give pinot blanc a try, you will like it. But no matter your wine choice, enjoy the summer and all it has to offer! Wine makes it better!
Len Panaggio is a wine consultant and former corporate beverage director for Newport Harbor Corp. Send feedback and suggestions to lcp23223@gmail.com. The Wine Press runs each month in The Daily News and online at newportri.com.
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